TAIWANESE BEEF NOODLE SOUP

Ingredients

• 5 cups water

• 1 cup soy sauce

• 1 cup Chinese rice wine or medium-dry Sherry

• 1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

• 1 (1-inch) cube peeled fresh ginger, smashed

• 1 bunch scallions, white parts smashed with flat side of a large knife and green parts chopped

• 3 garlic cloves, smashed

• 10 fresh cilantro stems plus 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro sprigs

• 2 (2-inch-long) pieces Asian dried tangerine peel*

• 4 whole star anise

• 1/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes

• 2 1/2 pounds meaty beef short ribs

• 1 3/4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (14 ounces)

• 10 ounces dried Chinese wheat noodles* or linguine

• 1 cup fresh mung bean sprouts

• 4 tablespoons Chinese pickled mustard greens**

• 1 (4-inch-long) fresh red chile (optional), thinly sliced

• Special equipment: cheesecloth

Preparation

Bring water, soy sauce, rice wine, brown sugar, ginger, white parts of scallion, garlic, cilantro stems, tangerine peel, star anise, and red pepper flakes to a boil in a 5- to 6-quart pot, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes. Add short ribs and gently simmer, covered, turning occasionally, until meat is very tender but not falling apart, 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 hours. Let meat stand in cooking liquid, uncovered, 1 hour.

Transfer meat to a cutting board with tongs and discard bones and membranes, then cut meat across the grain into 1/2-inch-thick slices. 3Pour beef broth through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a bowl and discard solids. Skim fat from cooking liquid and transfer liquid to a 3-quart saucepan. Add chicken broth and meat and reheat soup over moderately low heat.

Meanwhile, cook noodles in a 6- to 8-quart pot of (unsalted) boiling water until tender, about 7 minutes (14 to 15 minutes for linguine). Drain noodles well in a colander and divide among 4 large soup bowls.

Ladle broth over noodles and top with meat, scallion greens, bean sprouts, pickled mustard greens, cilantro sprigs, and red chile (if using).

Cooks' note: Meat and beef broth can be cooked and strained 3 days ahead. Cool completely, uncovered, then chill meat in broth, covered. Skim fat before adding chicken broth.

#taiwan